Field journal
Dispatches from the road in Northeast India
Long-form notes from trips we actually made — tribal villages, festival grounds and mountain valleys, photographed and written on the ground.
West Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh · 9 min read
Among the Monpa: Thembang, Sangti Valley and Dirang Dzong
Stone houses, inscribed mithun skulls, yak meat drying in the winter sun — three days in the Monpa heartland of West Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh.
Mon district, Nagaland · 11 min read
Aoleang Festival, Mon — Where the Konyak New Year Comes Alive
Six days of spring in Mon district, when the Konyak lay down the old year, put on their fathers' headgear and dance the new one in.
Majuli district, Assam · 8 min read
Majuli Island, Assam — crossing the Brahmaputra to a river island
The ferry ghat, an hour on the Brahmaputra, and then paddy fields — notes from Majuli, the river island at the heart of Assam's Vaishnavite culture.